New to nitro questions.

[BCbud]

Ok, here I go.

My receiver battery is 1300mA lipo and there is a voltage regulator installed. Approximately what would be the run time be with this battery setup?

New tires, do you true them to a sertan size or just true them to be round or throw them on right out of the box and run them?

The way my car is right now the front wheels are turning faster than the rear. Is this a common setup and will the tire size need to be smaller on the front to compensate for this? What advantage or handling characteristics will this change?

That is all for now but there will be more to follow.

Thanks, Neil.

[Shawn68z]

Ok, here I go.

My receiver battery is 1300mA lipo and there is a voltage regulator installed. Approximately what would be the run time be with this battery setup?

New tires, do you true them to a sertan size or just true them to be round or throw them on right out of the box and run them?

The way my car is right now the front wheels are turning faster than the rear. Is this a common setup and will the tire size need to be smaller on the front to compensate for this? What advantage or handling characteristics will this change?

That is all for now but there will be more to follow.

Thanks, Neil.

1) Depending on your servos and RXer, you should probably expect close to an hour or 1.5 hours  (or more) on that battery. I think I draw about 120Mah per qualifier race (So maybe 7-8 minutes per race)  from my life cell.

2 & 3)   Depends on the tires if you need to cut them. Jacos you need to cut, Matrix already come with the rears 2mm larger.  You will want to start your rears alittle bigger then the front. Two main reason, they tend to wear alittle faster, and it will make your car pushy, which is good for the beginning of the race.   The car will get better and dial itself in during the middle of the race, and get alittle loose towards the end.
 To help with tire wear, its normal to run one of two levels harder in the rear (35F, 38 Rear)  On our track I have been running 32F, and 35R, which works really well for normal club racing, but tries to traction roll on big weekeneds when the grip is up.  For that I have 37F, 40R.   
 Speaking of tire wear. I have found that I have been getting better tire wear with softer tires then the harder compounds when the traction is low (normal weekend stuff.)  When the traction is up, you get hardly any wear at all.

Don't forget to check the ride height before every race.. I forgot to check for the mains (mainly I was to busy with my electric, and Cameron's car), and couldn't drive the car anymore. The chassis kept  bottoming out on the straights...


Shawn.

[Blake]

I really like a 5 shore split.  32/37 or 35/40.  The front and rears wear at the exact same rate that way on my car.  I run the fronts 2mm smaller than the rears.

Ride height is a pain in Nitro because if you start raising your ride height as your tires wear, you'll automatically reduce your droop/uptravel.  This drastically impacts the NT1's corner entry from undrivable oversteer to undrivable push.  This year I set my ride height with plain rims (no foam) to 1mm front and rear.  Then I cut the tires fairly big 62mm/64mm and run them until my ride height is too low (3mm on our track is getting pretty low).  I only adjust the srings to correct tweak, and I only adjust the droop screws if I'm looking to make a handling change.

This is good for cleaning.  Spray it all over the car and then blast it off with 100psi or more.  This is not Isopropyl.  It is "95% Ethanol" when reading the fine print.
http://www1.shoppersdrugmart.ca/en/health-and-pharmacy/everyday-medicines-and-first-aid/first-aid/details/057800059479

Try a Charge/Discharge cycle on that RX battery to get an idea of its true capacity.  I agree with Shawn that a full 1300mAh could do a 90min race with normal servos and properly set endpoints.


Blake

[Shawn68z]

This is good for cleaning.  Spray it all over the car and then blast it off with 100psi or more.  This is not Isopropyl.  It is "95% Ethanol" when reading the fine print.
http://www1.shoppersdrugmart.ca/en/health-and-pharmacy/everyday-medicines-and-first-aid/first-aid/details/057800059479

Matt at NRC has aluminum pressure bottles that you can fill with any liquid, and charge with a bicycle pump or compressor.   Next time I am up that way I will see if he still has some, they would be perfect for this.  Kinda reminds me of the old school "seltzer bottles.. "..


Shawn.

[Falcon]

blake so you use a set of old tires ,just the rims no foam on them. I'm going to try this.great idea

[Shawn68z]

Another approach to tire wear and ride height, is to buy 3-4 sets of tires in the spring, and run them until they are half-down. Then once you have used all 4 sets, setup your car to run them to the rim, and run each of the sets until they are gone. That way, you get to use all foam you paid for, and don't need to true the tires when them come out of the package (if your running matrix.)

 

Cheers,
Shawn.

[BCbud]

Well it looks like X-ray changed the 2 prefix numbers on there shock parts for the NT1 but the NT1 shocks appear to be taken from the T1FK04 so I have a lot of extras there !

I do not know how far I will get but I am going to try and put a factory team setup into my car. The one I have chosen is Paul LeMieux 2010 ROAR Nationals - Winning Setup. It is close to the basic setup with a few changes. Once I have done this I will know how to ajust the car to a point and know what my settings are unlike now, where I have no idea how my car is set up.

Neil.

[Blake]

blake so you use a set of old tires ,just the rims no foam on them. I'm going to try this.great idea

Yeah, I just trued an old set down to the rim.  Try not to touch the plastic. The rims are not perfectly round so you'll have some foam/glue remaining on the rim in certain places.  They should measure exactly 50mm in diameter (with Xceed rims anyway) if you do it perfectly.

Blake

[valk]

I just run t3 style shocks on my nt1. the adjustable rebound thing they tried to do is just too complex for my feeble brain lol. you should ask blake for his setup sheet. his car is definitely the benchmark for our track.

[BCbud]

I just run t3 style shocks on my nt1. the adjustable rebound thing they tried to do is just too complex for my feeble brain lol. you should ask blake for his setup sheet. his car is definitely the benchmark for our track.

After doing the shocks I have confirmed that they are the same as my old T1. Saying that I have too many spare shock parts to change. As for setup, I tried Blakes on my t4 2013 and it was not for me so I tried a couple of factory setups and found one that was good and I am workng on fine tuning that one. What works for one may not work for some one else.

Neil.

Edit: What is this adjustable rebound you are talking about?

[valk]

absolutely Neil. it all comes down to your own personal goals from the cars handling. factory setups will only give you a benchmark to ensure your car works properly, then you tweak to suit.

the adjustable rebound.. there is a plastic bottom cap on my factory shocks that allowed you to adjust rebound by pumping them a certain number of times with the cap open.. i couldn't see that being accurate or repeatable though. they also had a damping adjustment that goes inside the shock and lets you change the hole profile. that i could see using, but i stuck to good old fassion 3 hole t3 shocks. to set rebound i just compress the shock a pre determined amount when inserting the bladder and hold it there as i put the cap on. I use my wire crimps as they seem to give me a fairly re-producable 25% rebound.
  then with a pair of shocks, ill tighten/loosen the cap to get a pair of shocks to rebound the same.

your car seemed to work pretty well the few times i saw it running though. when you had tires on it that is ha.

[BCbud]

the adjustable rebound.. there is a plastic bottom cap on my factory shocks that allowed you to adjust rebound by pumping them a certain number of times with the cap open.. i couldn't see that being accurate or repeatable though. they also had a damping adjustment that goes inside the shock and lets you change the hole profile. that i could see using, but i stuck to good old fassion 3 hole t3 shocks. to set rebound i just compress the shock a pre determined amount when inserting the bladder and hold it there as i put the cap on. I use my wire crimps as they seem to give me a fairly re-producable 25% rebound.
  then with a pair of shocks, ill tighten/loosen the cap to get a pair of shocks to rebound the same.

Are you talking about X-ray shocks as this is that is what I am talking about.

[valk]

xray 308330 bodied shocks are what im talking about. if the bottom cap of your shocks have plastic caps these are prob the ones you have. if aluminum caps on bottom, they are the more standard xray shocks. the black bottom ones have a process to pump in rebound. I didn't like it and went with the more traditional shock that has been on all the nt1 revisions since.
Is all im saying. seems like you have it sorted out though so it doesn't even matter =)

[Shawn68z]

Why have  a shock with rebound at all?    Shocks are for dampening, and should not have an effect on your wheel rates. 


Shawn.

[BCbud]

I always try to build my shocks with little to no rebound.

One thing I noticed in my limmited run time is it was not easy to slowly apply the throttle out of a corner, does anyone use expo on there transmitters?

Neil.