How often do you clean/check your filter?

[valk]

i ran mine for two days or so without checking it and my engine got full of crap.. probably not going to destroy it, but definitely shortened the life of the guts a bit. how frequently do you change/clean yours?

[Gorden]

a little different track conditions but for my 1/8  I replace the filter after each race day

[Shawn68z]

depends on your filter. I run an offroad filte, on road, and I think I did an entire season without cleaning it.   Now I try and clean it when the white foam looks black in spots. The outer filter catches most of the dirt.


Shawn.

[valk]

I should have kept that 1/8 filter. that seemed to work really well. the ins box didn't change the tone of the motor much, and i don't think the filter worked nearly as well =\ bearings were pretty gritty but a good cleaning saved em. the head and piston top seems to have taken the worst of it. maybe some slight pitting to the head button.

tollerances all check out, so im sure it will work just fine.

[Gorden]

I should have kept that 1/8 filter.

I can look in the parts box to see if I have some extra filters if you need one

GW

[Blake]

I used to clean and re-oil mine once a month roughly.  Now I use an INS box and I think I could go two months pretty easily.  It stays quite clean in that box.

Blake

[valk]

PS, forgot how much a PITA it can be to get the bearings back in.. been trying to get the rear one in and seated but by them the block has cooled too much to put the front one in. guess ill have to do the front one first then the rear one, but my luck, pressing the rear one in will press the front one OUT lol. gonna get th ebearings out and do this tommorrow. otherwise i wont have any cars to test/tune with!

[Shawn68z]

I should have kept that 1/8 filter. that seemed to work really well. the ins box didn't change the tone of the motor much, and i don't think the filter worked nearly as well =\ bearings were pretty gritty but a good cleaning saved em. the head and piston top seems to have taken the worst of it. maybe some slight pitting to the head button.

tollerances all check out, so im sure it will work just fine.

"Pitting" or a sandblasting looks to the top of the piston and button is normally from mild detonation.   Dirt and debris will cause the chome of the liner, and the skirt of the piston to wear quickly. The size of the piston will turn a dark grey.

[valk]

Must be dirt. Though the chrome isnt worn or scratched. There is a black ring where the pinchzone is and top of piston and head button are black. There used to ve a tanish triangular mark on the piston top but its all black now. Not sure if im running it too rich or lean as it seems to be running pretty good.
The bearings had a lot of crap in them though.

[Shawn68z]

You can have a motor run rich and detonate, and you only have to run it lean once to sand blast the top of the piston.

On tuesday i will bring a sleeve and piston that have been exposed to dirty air.    The piston is completely worn out.


What fuel are you running, and do you use an "After Run Oil?


Shawn.

[haddow]

i cleaned my cheap foam filter every week. i had a k&N cleaner kit so it was easy was wash it and oil it.

[gotnitro]

I use after run oil at the end off the season.  And I think I haven't  looked at my filter since we started this summer. Lol. My motor is four years old now and still going strong. I just change the con rod every year and I always heat the motor before I start it. It keeps the wear and tare down.

[valk]

Os engine suggests zap straps to clamp it on. I dontthink im gonna do that anymore. Do they make tbar clamps small enough for these or am i stuck with worm clamps?  If it is detonation im prob running too lean but it doesnt hesitate ir run hot. Maybe adding another head shim or getting colder plugs? 

I have another conrod and there is still tons if pinch and compression. I didnt fk it it just isnt as shiney and nice as it was =(

[gotnitro]

at 200degrees and higher its not going to be shinny for very long.

[Shawn68z]

Os engine suggests zap straps to clamp it on. I dontthink im gonna do that anymore. Do they make tbar clamps small enough for these or am i stuck with worm clamps?  If it is detonation im prob running too lean but it doesnt hesitate ir run hot. Maybe adding another head shim or getting colder plugs? 

I have another conrod and there is still tons if pinch and compression. I didnt fk it it just isnt as shiney and nice as it was =(

What type of air filter you using?  Are you trying to retro fit something to work as an airfilter (ie the K&N valve cover breather).

 Are you putting enough oil on the filter when you clean it?  Does the filter fit properly over the carb?


When you say grit in the bearings, is the grit magnetic/metalic in color?


Before putting your motor back together, verify your headclearance for the nitro % you are running.

Once you put your motor back together, and its running. Change the glow plug and run acoulple qualifiers. Then take the plug out and inspect it. You will see on the color of the chamber on the plug, and you can read the wire for distortion and dampness.   Tune your motor by exhaust and sound.. You can double check with temp if it makes you happy. (I do use a temp to verify temps after a run. )



Shawn.