How often do you clean/check your filter?

[valk]

i ran mine for two days or so without checking it and my engine got full of crap.. probably not going to destroy it, but definitely shortened the life of the guts a bit. how frequently do you change/clean yours?

[Gorden]

a little different track conditions but for my 1/8  I replace the filter after each race day

[Shawn68z]

depends on your filter. I run an offroad filte, on road, and I think I did an entire season without cleaning it.   Now I try and clean it when the white foam looks black in spots. The outer filter catches most of the dirt.


Shawn.

[valk]

I should have kept that 1/8 filter. that seemed to work really well. the ins box didn't change the tone of the motor much, and i don't think the filter worked nearly as well =\ bearings were pretty gritty but a good cleaning saved em. the head and piston top seems to have taken the worst of it. maybe some slight pitting to the head button.

tollerances all check out, so im sure it will work just fine.

[Gorden]

I should have kept that 1/8 filter.

I can look in the parts box to see if I have some extra filters if you need one

GW

[Blake]

I used to clean and re-oil mine once a month roughly.  Now I use an INS box and I think I could go two months pretty easily.  It stays quite clean in that box.

Blake

[valk]

PS, forgot how much a PITA it can be to get the bearings back in.. been trying to get the rear one in and seated but by them the block has cooled too much to put the front one in. guess ill have to do the front one first then the rear one, but my luck, pressing the rear one in will press the front one OUT lol. gonna get th ebearings out and do this tommorrow. otherwise i wont have any cars to test/tune with!

[Shawn68z]

I should have kept that 1/8 filter. that seemed to work really well. the ins box didn't change the tone of the motor much, and i don't think the filter worked nearly as well =\ bearings were pretty gritty but a good cleaning saved em. the head and piston top seems to have taken the worst of it. maybe some slight pitting to the head button.

tollerances all check out, so im sure it will work just fine.

"Pitting" or a sandblasting looks to the top of the piston and button is normally from mild detonation.   Dirt and debris will cause the chome of the liner, and the skirt of the piston to wear quickly. The size of the piston will turn a dark grey.

[valk]

Must be dirt. Though the chrome isnt worn or scratched. There is a black ring where the pinchzone is and top of piston and head button are black. There used to ve a tanish triangular mark on the piston top but its all black now. Not sure if im running it too rich or lean as it seems to be running pretty good.
The bearings had a lot of crap in them though.

[Shawn68z]

You can have a motor run rich and detonate, and you only have to run it lean once to sand blast the top of the piston.

On tuesday i will bring a sleeve and piston that have been exposed to dirty air.    The piston is completely worn out.


What fuel are you running, and do you use an "After Run Oil?


Shawn.

[haddow]

i cleaned my cheap foam filter every week. i had a k&N cleaner kit so it was easy was wash it and oil it.

[gotnitro]

I use after run oil at the end off the season.  And I think I haven't  looked at my filter since we started this summer. Lol. My motor is four years old now and still going strong. I just change the con rod every year and I always heat the motor before I start it. It keeps the wear and tare down.

[valk]

Os engine suggests zap straps to clamp it on. I dontthink im gonna do that anymore. Do they make tbar clamps small enough for these or am i stuck with worm clamps?  If it is detonation im prob running too lean but it doesnt hesitate ir run hot. Maybe adding another head shim or getting colder plugs? 

I have another conrod and there is still tons if pinch and compression. I didnt fk it it just isnt as shiney and nice as it was =(

[gotnitro]

at 200degrees and higher its not going to be shinny for very long.

[Shawn68z]

Os engine suggests zap straps to clamp it on. I dontthink im gonna do that anymore. Do they make tbar clamps small enough for these or am i stuck with worm clamps?  If it is detonation im prob running too lean but it doesnt hesitate ir run hot. Maybe adding another head shim or getting colder plugs? 

I have another conrod and there is still tons if pinch and compression. I didnt fk it it just isnt as shiney and nice as it was =(

What type of air filter you using?  Are you trying to retro fit something to work as an airfilter (ie the K&N valve cover breather).

 Are you putting enough oil on the filter when you clean it?  Does the filter fit properly over the carb?


When you say grit in the bearings, is the grit magnetic/metalic in color?


Before putting your motor back together, verify your headclearance for the nitro % you are running.

Once you put your motor back together, and its running. Change the glow plug and run acoulple qualifiers. Then take the plug out and inspect it. You will see on the color of the chamber on the plug, and you can read the wire for distortion and dampness.   Tune your motor by exhaust and sound.. You can double check with temp if it makes you happy. (I do use a temp to verify temps after a run. )



Shawn.

[gotnitro]

New nick name. For shawn.   The motor whisperer.  Lol. 

[Shawn68z]

New nick name. For shawn.   The motor whisperer.  Lol.

I got nothing better to do then sit on this website.. Had to go back to work today.. Sucks... Already looking forward to the weekend!

Shawn.

[valk]

No metal bits though the back cover did get a little bit of marking from shimming the bearings. Very very light. Not enough to wear the coating on the crank even.
Ill try to seat the bearings a little closer together if its possible this time to eliminate that shim.
The problem was the clutch nut was compressing the bearings together which wore the front one out.

Which thread talked about head shimming? And my piston is convex with a dimple in the middle. Will that change the measurement? All my other engines were flat top.

More when i get home and have time to try to put it back together

[Shawn68z]

The clutch nut was wearing out the bearing?  Did you use the cone from the engine?


I dunno that's pretty weird, the flywheel and clutchnut shouldn't be compressing the bearings at all. Just tighten the nut until its "tight", but don't torque the crap out of it. If it comes loose, put a dab of thread locker on it.


You going to have it running for tomorrow?

[Shawn68z]

According to the motors manual.   The motor comes with .3mm shim (2 shims), and recommends breaking in with 20%, and then removing the .1mm shim (And continue to run 20%). Or leave the shim, and run 30%




Shawn

[valk]

There was no new Cone with this engine. just came with the manifold gaskets, some dust covers and a glow plug.

I think my shim on the crank might have pushed the crank just a tiny bit too far back. looks like it has made contact with the back cover a little. some light scoring on the back plate and conrod. but i cant imagine that getting into the bearings. there was black crap on the carb inlet after i pulled the filter assembly off.

most of the crap on the head button and piston im sure i can get off with a solvent and some scrubbing, but meh.

im sure this wil run just fine. i have a spare conrod and if i need a sleeve/piston its actually cheaper for this motor than my old TZ heh.

[valk]

what page did it say that, manual in hand and head shimming isnt covered.. is there a better manual than the factory supplied one?

[Shawn68z]

Motor insides looks good. Piston walls are fine.   Definitely no wear there. Looks like you did have alittle detonation at one time. Easy to do when the weather outside was really hot.


Head shims are discussed on Page 13. (Speed spec 2 manual),  Under "Dust Caps", it says "About the head gaskets.".  Page 10 & 20 talks about the recommended fuel being 20%.   OS Engines website actually recommends 20% Odonnel for this engine.

 What fuel you been running? If its 30% then stick with it, otherwise pull the .1 shim out and run it that way.. You'll get more power.

[valk]

20% smurf piss. i might try that odonnel next year then. took the shim out and rebuilding.. ill probably clean and silicone the carb while its this far apart.

that info isnt in the spec3 manual.. weird.

[Shawn68z]

Gesh.. That motor has enough rip on 20%, without the head shim (Providing it doesnt have premature detonation) will make even more power!



  I think for next year I might try and run some Kosmic fuel from DJ Appollo.  I spoke with him alittle this year about shipping, and we think we can get it done for a reasonable rate. I will have to make a trip to seattle to pick it up though. I will make a post in march if its going to happen.

Shawn.

[valk]

I like it. But it seems to murder my transmission and stuff pretty good.

Replace my second spool insert for the season too. Maybe if im rich next year ill buy the xray Alloy spool =O

[Shawn68z]

I like it. But it seems to murder my transmission and stuff pretty good.

Replace my second spool insert for the season too. Maybe if im rich next year ill buy the xray Alloy spool =O

Or you could "ease" your way onto to the trottle...... Nahh... Never mind... Give'r and drive it like you stole it!

[valk]

its entirely possible my clutch isn't set up perfect, but every week i have to take the shoe out and give it a sand or the clutch slips pretty bad and makes me chase other things. I might replace a few things and pass the car onto a would be nitro newbie next year as a roller. Id really like to start getting into some NIB cars. my spec r will be the first kit ive actually had the pleasure of tearing the bags open with.

[jarrodH]

I like it. But it seems to murder my transmission and stuff pretty good.

Replace my second spool insert for the season too. Maybe if im rich next year ill buy the xray Alloy spool =O

Or you could "ease" your way onto to the trottle...... Nahh... Never mind... Give'r and drive it like you stole it!

Ease into it..? Forget that, drive it like it's a rental..

[Shawn68z]

I like it. But it seems to murder my transmission and stuff pretty good.

Replace my second spool insert for the season too. Maybe if im rich next year ill buy the xray Alloy spool =O

Or you could "ease" your way onto to the trottle...... Nahh... Never mind... Give'r and drive it like you stole it!

..... drive it like it's a rental.....

Oh come on Jrod.. Everyone knows Rentals are only good for speed runs!  They never make it around the corner, with out hitting the curb!


Shawn.