Bullet connectors and building a power from PC PSU

[Boostgod]

I have a few questions.

I noticed on the speed passion club Esc the motor wires have female bullet connectors on them. I'd like to utilize them instead of soldering every time I want to switch a motor.  What size would the male ones be to solder to the motor? Can they be had locally?

I also bought a used orion carbon battery pack which uses "tubes", what size is the male connector that goes into it?

These are all newer style connectors I haven't  seen before.


And lastly, anyone try converting a PC PSU as a means to make a cheap custom power supply for a dc charger?

[Shawn68z]

Normally people use a 3mm plug on the motor side. I believe I have some I send your way.  If you get them downtown you will pay through the nose.   However, saying that, I would recommend soldering the wires to the motor.  Less chance of failure, and how often do you change a motor?  Mine has been soldered in for 3 years now.

 As for the power supply, I have converted acouple of them now, you need to make sure there is always a load present on the power supply or it wont regulate properly. The easiest to do is install a 50 Ohm (8 Watt) resistor between the 12V rail and the GND.

 The other thing you have to be aware of is how the PSU produces the 12V, some have 1 rail which is the best, but some have multiple 12V rails of different amperages.   A single large high amperage rail is ideal, and easier to work with. Small amperages can be used, but its easier to mix them up and overload the rail.

Shawn.

[Boostgod]

Thanks Shawn.

What size are the bullets for the battery pack?

[Shawn68z]

Thanks Shawn.

What size are the bullets for the battery pack?

4mm older packs, and lower C values
5mm for the newer higher discharge C valued packs. (I still think its all marketing. )

[Boostgod]

Thanks Shawn.

What size are the bullets for the battery pack?

4mm older packs, and lower C values
5mm for the newer higher discharge C valued packs. (I still think its all marketing. )

Hey Shawn,

Can you have a look at this for me?

 http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/84382ml.pdf

Ive been looking it over, and was wondering if you have any tips as far as if I should use the factory diff / shock oils or if you recommend something else.
Plus I understand that people put thicker oil / grease in the front diff? How would that effect handling? Does that create understeer / oversteer?

Im going to be running stock setting for everything else until I learn it, but if I can put the right oils in the diffs / shocks from the get, it will save me hassle later.

This article here:  http://www.thercracer.com/2013/11/tamiya-tb04-pro-build-and-review.html recommends 1.5k in the rear diff and 500,000cst in the front diff.

Can you explain that to me, and do toy recommend I just use the OEM fluids in the Kit or not?

[BCbud]

Imo I would start off with the factory setup and drive the car for a while. You can ask 4 different people about setup and get 4 different answers, as everyone has a different driving style and likes there car to respond to there driving style.

After driving the car for a while you can start asking questions like "I would like more on power grip" and you will get several valid options on how to do that. Also when dialing in your car to your likes, only change one thing at a time and if you do not like the change you can set it back to how it was and try something different.

Neil.

[Shawn68z]

Hey Shawn,

Can you have a look at this for me?

 http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/84382ml.pdf

Ive been looking it over, and was wondering if you have any tips as far as if I should use the factory diff / shock oils or if you recommend something else.
Plus I understand that people put thicker oil / grease in the front diff? How would that effect handling? Does that create understeer / oversteer?

Im going to be running stock setting for everything else until I learn it, but if I can put the right oils in the diffs / shocks from the get, it will save me hassle later.

This article here:  http://www.thercracer.com/2013/11/tamiya-tb04-pro-build-and-review.html recommends 1.5k in the rear diff and 500,000cst in the front diff.

Can you explain that to me, and do toy recommend I just use the OEM fluids in the Kit or not?

Imo I would start off with the factory setup and drive the car for a while. You can ask 4 different people about setup and get 4 different answers, as everyone has a different driving style and likes there car to respond to there driving style.

Yep.  I agree 100% with Neil.  I don't have any experience with that kit, and how like to setup my cars might be considerably different then they way other people setup their cars.    Build the kit the best you can to factory setup, and then run it for acouple of weeks, and then you can start making changes.  The factory teams have figured this stuff out pretty good.

As for your question,  a stiffer diff in the front will make the car push more entering corners (off power), but will allow you to pull the car thru corner, with more on power steering.   

There are so many different options you can choose when setting up a car,  you just have to drive consistently, and make note of certain things. Like if the car is pushing or loose, and where in the corner Entry/Mid/Exit, and if your on power or off power.   The speed of the corner also makes a big difference.  What what your tires are doing, their wear patterns can tell you a lot about what the car is doing in the corners, and if you are maximizing the grip available from the tires. 


Cheers,
Shawn.