Hey guys
I phoned CRC today and it happens that I was talking to frank. We had a good conversation about the new car. He told me that the hubs are just about done. There getting anodized. He said that it's possible that the parts will be in there hands by next week but a good delivery date is somewhere between the 24th April and the 1st May. He say hold tight.
john
any word if this will be out on the 24th?
Quote from: "light"any word if this will be out on the 24th?
On RCTech, "TeamCRC" who I think is Frank, said they will ship "The Week of April 28th".
Which depending if your an optimist - April 28th, Pessimist May 2nd.
It sucks waiting, but if the car drives half as good as it looks then it will still be a stellar car.
Shawn.
Study the manual now... Save yourself sometime when the kit arrives.
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads/manuals/GenX10manualcomplete.pdf
you have too much time on your hands.
Quote from: "SgRddY"you have too much time on your hands.
Thats why I have hobbies. It keeps me busy. That way I dont drive my wife nuts. :)
Shawn.
QuoteNah, looks like about 14 actually.
We are quite excited to ship the Gen-X 10 starting later this week. Production cars will be in action in Canada this weekend. We will have cars running in both 200 and 235 mm versions. With all the flexibility in this new ride, I am sure it will meet the needs of many onroad racers.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=206057&page=11
Could this be our cars?
I like the one poster that didn't believe we had over 12 cars coming to just our club.
:wink:
Quote from: "weekend_camper"I like the one poster that didn't believe we had over 12 cars coming to just our club.
:wink:
Really.... I actually liked the "Production cars will be in action in Canada this weekend." part best myself. So is that a likely scenario? or will shipping hold us up?
he was refering to the cars in hamilton ontaio apparently
yes, they are talking Hamilton, ON.
A club race that Miles, Tom and Whopper are going to on Sunday.
Peace
"You all should be building your Gen-X 10's this time next week.
John and Tom Firsching from CRC will be running the Gen-X 10's in Canada. They are planning to concentrate on running the stick pack Lipo with brushless motors as we speculate that this will become the most popular configuration of this class in the future. With the 7.4 pack on an outdoor asphalt track, the cars should be a real ball to run. I do hope the 1/8 cars give room on the backstraight. "
Sweet - guess I should get a body too.....
Latest update "From that other BIG RC Forum".
TeamCRC " The wide kit is not even ready for production yet. "
Looks like I need a 200mm body....Arg!
Shawn
Quote from: "Shawn68z"Latest update "From that other BIG RC Forum".
TeamCRC " The wide kit is not even ready for production yet. "
Looks like I need a 200mm body....Arg!
Shawn
Shawn has a body now
I'll use this one
(http://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/hpi7418.jpg)
Gorden
if you want a 200mm gtp body use a nitro one,
Hi guys,
we got to run the cars this weekend at the big 8th scale nitro track in Hamilton, ON. I ran the 235mm version with some home-made hub adapters as the production ones are not ready yet. My brother Tom ran the car in 200mm form with the Protoform 200mm Lola body.
8th scale Fast lap - 19.3
My Fast lap - 21.0
Tom's Fast lap - 20.9
We were struggling a little bit with rear grip as it was the first race of the season and the track was still a bit dirty, but the cars were pretty good over all and we were really pleased.
Anyway, if you need a 200mm body for now, i would HIGHLY suggest that lola body. His car handled as good as mine in the infield, he just couldn't drive quite as deep into the end of the straight as i could with the extra downforce.
John
do you mean this one?
(http://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/pfm148000.jpg)
sure do. that body works very well.
john
Ladies
I believe these cars shipped to Victoria today! With 235 mm adapters!
Lets all hope for nice weather this weekend. Let the Pro10 points commence!
Quote from: "haddow"Ladies
I believe these cars shipped to Victoria today! With 235 mm adapters!
Lets all hope for nice weather this weekend. Let the Pro10 points commence!
With 235 adapters? Ahhh Come on! I just bought a 200MM body to run!! I hope all this pain and suffering this car has caused me is going to be worth it! :wink:
Shawn.
Quote from: "haddow"Ladies
I believe these cars shipped to Victoria today! With 235 mm adapters!
Lets all hope for nice weather this weekend. Let the Pro10 points commence!
Any idea on the cost of the adapter? and would they be sent overnight?
I'm going to use the SALEEN S7R
(http://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/hpi7469.jpg)
So if someone is stuck for a body I have the 200mm Porsche 911 GT3 $27.00
(http://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/hpi7418.jpg)
Mine is almost done!
Big thanks to Craig for prepping my chassis while I built sub-assemblies!
Also thanks to craig for drilling out front end parts that I stripped screws out of on step #1 of the prostrut assembly. shocking!
see ya sunday!
Guys don't forget pics/video for us folks in Los Angeles, eager to see them in action before I make the leap and buy one. Also besides the obvious, esc, motor, rims, tires, reciever what else is need to get up and running? Nebie here so go easy :D
Half way through building the car and its just as nice as the Gen X was to put together. Fit and finish so far is fantastic - even when I put the rear pod together with the rear braces, etc the last piece lined up perfectly with the piece beneath it. I'm just at putting the battery tray/upper deck together then the rest of the car looks to be for the most part familiar territory with the GenX front end.
Can't wait to race it! (maybe I should finish putting it together first though...)
I hear it's supposed to rain on you guys again Sunday. I don't think they will handle very well in the rain!!!! Have fun, see you in a couple of weeks.
P.S. Hey, Mick, how is mine coming?
forecast actually looks damn nice on the weather network!!
Okay, so i have my car together, and took it for a spin (in the air, across the lawn..)
I can not believe how fast this car is, the LiPo 10.5, is just crazy fast. On our street there was not enough room or traction to go full throttle. I tried, the car snapped loose, onto the front lawn, did some aerobatics, and crashed. So my $12 servo I have been using for the last year finially broke..
Still the car feels good, I think its going to work well, but I am having alittle difficulty working in the diff right now, it sounds alittle loose, but I dont want to tighten it anymore then it is now, or the car pulls really hard on acceleration.
Any ideas? or just leave it for a few runs?
Shawn.
Shawn,
You need to break in your diff slowly. Have it set just tight enough to hold itself together, then while it's sitting on it's car stand, hold the left rear wheel with your hand and hit the gas slowly for about 30 seconds. Then stop and tighten it a little more, run it again while holding the left rear. Keep doing this procedure until you can just barely turn the spur while holding both wheels simultaneously. Thats how to get your diff broken in correctly. Now you can back off the diff to lessen the wheel spin on the surface you're trying to run on.
I hope that helps.
Mick
Quote from: "DekelzMan"Now you can back off the diff to lessen the wheel spin on the surface you're trying to run on.
I don't like using a diff as a slipper clutch -- it's not designed to take the heat. That's the way to melt spur gears.
The idea is to use the throttle as though it is not an "on - off" switch. Pull it slowly and this will prevent wheel spin.
Yes Tom, that is the best way if you've been driving a pancar for a while but for those that this is a new experience, a slipping diff may be the only way to put down the power. I highly doubt anyone will be putting down enough power to melt a diff until we get some real traction built into the track.
LOL
Mick
Quote from: "DekelzMan"Shawn,
You need to break in your diff slowly. Have it set just tight enough to hold itself together, then while it's sitting on it's car stand, hold the left rear wheel with your hand and hit the gas slowly for about 30 seconds. Then stop and tighten it a little more, run it again while holding the left rear. Keep doing this procedure until you can just barely turn the spur while holding both wheels simultaneously. Thats how to get your diff broken in correctly. Now you can back off the diff to lessen the wheel spin on the surface you're trying to run on.
I hope that helps.
Mick
Yeah thanks Mick, I went onto the CRC site and read up on building a good diff. I think i just didnt let it work in long enough, its much better now.
Shawn.
What setup boards/equiptment is everyone using for there 1/10 pan? Been looking at Hudy, Integy and unity. Hudy seems very expensive. Any leads/tips on best equiptment would be greatly appreciated.
I have the Unity and it is the perfect match for 1/12 and 1/10 and even 1/8 pan cars. Has all you need, tweak, toe in, and camber. Very well built. Highly recommended.
Mick
Quote from: "espresso1967"What setup boards/equiptment is everyone using for there 1/10 pan? Been looking at Hudy, Integy and unity. Hudy seems very expensive. Any leads/tips on best equiptment would be greatly appreciated.
To save alittle money for a setup board, I bought the Integy replacement decal for $7.00 online, and then applied it to a scrap piece of 3/4 MDF board. Used a nylon nut cover, and two screws (with nuts epoxied into it) so it can be leveled.
Then for Pan, I bought a MIP tweek station for $20 (ebay).
Shawn.