so im wondering if i can run my hpi e10
its stock for the most part
all i have done is put ball bearings everywhere, put in a rear spool, sway-bar kit and an aluminum driveshaft
and some purely asthetic things done to the body
also what are tire restrictions? can i run random tires or do i need to pick up something specific
here are the stock specs from the hpi site
INCLUDES:
Painted & Trimmed Body
Adjustable Body Mounts
Quick Change Battery Holder
Shaft Drive 4WD System
Shock Absorbing Foam Bumper
High Torque Saturn 27T 540 Motor
7.2V Rechargeable Battery
AC Charger
TF-1 AM Radio System with RF-1 Receiver and SF-1 Steering Servo
EN-1 Electronic Speed Control with Reverse
T-Grip tires
Chrome Gram Lights 57S-Pro Wheels
SPECIFICATIONS:
Length: 14.8" (375mm)
Width: Adjustable 7.32", 7.56", 7.80" (186, 192, 198mm)
Wheelbase: 10" (255mm)
Weight: 2.8lbs. w/o body (1280g)
Drive System: Shaft Drive 4WD
Drive Ratio: 7.48:1
thanks for the help
Hey,
the general rule of thumb is to allow "newbs" to run what they brung ... your HPI seems to meet the minimums of a 27 turn motor, 1/10 scale and tunable suspension.
We're at the QA parking lot around 2pm to maybe 5pm on Saturday, bring the car around and talk to some of the guys. You can try running on the track when its set up, as we'll be practicing. Racing on Sunday.
Tires are slicks for the most part, but again, what ever you have is likely OK for now. Some one will have slicks they can loan you if you want to try them.
Sure can. I would take the spool out of the rear, and put it in the front though. Run a regular ball diff in the rear. For tires, the club runs any 63mm(?) slick racing tire. Normally a "32" compound is a good tire $30-$40 for a complete set. I dont see any real reason you couldnt run the kit tires for acouple of races, but they dont offer the traction that a racing slick does.
Your speed control has reverse, which is fine, just try not to use it during the race. Check your manual, you might be able to lock out the reverse function.
If your body is really "pretty", you might want to swing into the shaver shop, and get a touring car body and give it a quick paint job. Running on a track between boards is harder then it looks, and you can expect to hit the boards a few times during a race day.
You will also need a quick charger of some sort. The AC charger that comes with the kit, probably isnt upto snuff for a racing enviroment.
Parts might become an issue if you should break something, our club mainly runs Xray and Associated electric cars.
Shawn.
well i think the grip tires i have should be decent for awhile, thanks for letting me know about the ball diff
i dont think ill be able to make it out on Saturday as ill be out at western speedway till 5
cant do squat all with the stock esc, my bodys not that pretty ive just done somethings to make it look cool and different, so im not afraid of running into the boards or anything and im fully expecting to i just hope i don't hit anyone else
i have a charger that hooks onto batterys and i have other batterypacks so i should be good in that department
whats the start time and entry fee for sunday
part of me wants to run my nitro car too but it can be really fussy and the clutch is pretty much done on it so i think ill just stick to electric
I'd actually recommend not running the spool in the front at first if you can manage it. If you have a diff for the front and rear run that. If you only have a spool/diff combo then it is good for sure, but new racers tend to find themselves in the boards a fair bit and a spool is very hard on your outdrives and your dogbones. They tend to bend since the spool doesn't allow the wheels to spin independently in a crash. When you hit one wheel on the boards or another car etc, all of the impact is transmitted to the drive train. Lots of people do run a spool, though, since it has excellent braking and drive out of a corner.
For what it is worth ...
See you at the races!
Phil
Quote from: imperium on August 21, 2009, 02:27:27 AM
whats the start time and entry fee for sunday
Hi imperium,
It'd be best if you showed up around 9AM at Queen Alexandra with all your batteries charged. You'll be able to practice for a bit before the first official races start around 10AM or just after. The cost is $5 and I believe all race fees for the day will be donated to the QA facility.
Blake
alright ill meet everyone on sunday then :) hopefully i don't suck toooo much
i fully expect to crash at some point though
you should fully expect to crash many,many times each race,just like most of us did and somtimes still do'its all good
i drove by the track today at 4ish and it looked like they were just finishing the final wrap up :(
ya they finished making the track u should have gone and pacticed
it's up and if you want to practice go a head. we left as the lady in the house behind the trees was yelling at Bruce and me about how bad the nitro cars sound....wait till Sunday
-=light=-
ya im going extra early then nanananananananaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa nitro sounds lol
i went and got a pack of practice in tonight good fun, for some reason my car turns sharper one way than the other, maybe cause im running a spool?
also at one point i dunno how i shot out one of my dogbones and spent 20 minutes trying to find the damn thing
i think im going to paint everything on the car that can fall off easily fluorescent green
after my first pack i swapped batteries and threw on my drift tires :) then i was really in my element :D
although even after practice my body is nicely scuffed now :)
btw, what was the sticky stuff that was sprayed on the track?
that is our grip. depending on your set up if your dogbones are to loose they will fall outwhen turning or bumping into a wall
Quote from: imperium on August 23, 2009, 12:20:18 AM
btw, what was the sticky stuff that was sprayed on the track?
we use a sugar water to make the track sticky.
ah lol i thought it mighta been something like that i was wiping some off my car and licked my finger and noticed it tasted sweet
i think it also gives the track a cool look like its been driven that way for ages and rubber has built up there
Quote from: gotnitro on August 23, 2009, 01:10:20 AM
that is our grip. depending on your set up if your dogbones are to loose they will fall outwhen turning or bumping into a wall
yeah i think it happend when i hit a wall, ill have to take a look at it and see if theres anything i can do to prevent it
maybe ill buy proper swing shafts
Quote from: imperium on August 23, 2009, 01:53:04 AM
Quote from: gotnitro on August 23, 2009, 01:10:20 AM
that is our grip. depending on your set up if your dogbones are to loose they will fall outwhen turning or bumping into a wall
ill have to take a look at it and see if theres anything i can do to prevent it
that's easy Don't hit the wall
then why do you?? ;D
i meant prevent the dogbone falling out
i got new pinions, now running a 27 (previously 22)
also got a 35 in case there's of a course with a massive straight
ill grab some tires tomorrow from shaver and i should be out at the practice
Quote from: imperium on August 24, 2009, 09:36:55 PM
i got new pinions, now running a 27 (previously 22)
also got a 35 in case there's of a course with a massive straight
ill grab some tires tomorrow from shaver and i should be out at the practice
Be very careful as you have made a big jump in your gearing. Drive the car for about 3mins then check to see how hot your motor is.
We all have burnt up motors from putting to large of a pinon gear on.
Also a note from the Hpi web site about their pinons
QuoteHPI Racing is proud to introduce a selection of Pinion Gears ranging from 20T to 35T for the E10 touring car.
These 0.6M pinion gears are a perfect fit on the E10, making gear ratio adjustments quick and easy.
Each pinion is precision machined to the exact factory tolerances for a smooth gear mesh.
A wide range of gears is needed for the various stock and modified motor racing classes,
so most racers will carry several different pinion sizes in their pit boxes.
Each gear is stamped with the number of teeth for easy identification.
Note: These 0.6M pinion gears are not compatible with 48 pitch and 64 pitch spur gears.
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/88027/ (http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/88027/)
-=light=-
wellll crap, jeff paired up the pinion with a spur gear from the car and he said yup 48 pitch
what kinda damage do you think i could do, just wear out my spur? or something serious
side by side i couldnt see a visible difference in the teeth of the 48 and the ".6m"
is it possible hpi just wants people to by into their own parts
on another note i ran the car with the 35t for 3 or 4 minutes up and down the street
it got warm but not hot
plus if i burn out my motor then i have more of an excuse to get a new one :D
Running two gears of slightly different pitch can end up working alright, even though efficiency suffers a little bit. That's how the X-ray (or Serpent -- they're both close enough to the same) nitro cars work. However, if you don't get full engagement, expect a lot of noise and short life.
You may have ended up getting gears the same pitch anyway. If they look like they engage all the way, then there's no real issue.
Driving the car for 3 or 4 minutes up and down the street is nothing like running a 6 minute race. What really matters is roll-out -- that's the measure of how far the car travels for each revolution of the motor. For this, you need the diameter of the wheels (the same for all touring cars), your final drive ratio (the gear reduction of your drivetrain -- similar to the final drive ratio of a pickup truck's axle), and your primary gear ratio (what you're playing with, which is kind of like what gear you're in when you're driving your pickup truck).
Your motor will get much hotter in a race than just playing on the street, especially if you have proper race tires.
As an exercise, see if you can figure out how many millimetres your car travels with each revolution of your motor. You can double check to see if your answer is approximately correct by eyeballing it with your car on the table.
Checked out HPI's site, and did alittle math for the E10.
Tranny ratio is 2.53
Spur is 65T,
Pinion is 22T
and the FDR is 7.48.
So by changing the FDR (depends on the motor that you have), you would NOT want to higher then a 24T pinion (maybe a 25T on a big track). Anymore then that and the internal smoke will be released.
Shawn.
well i got myself some new motors and some slicks
i had planned to go to practice today but ended up getting those parts
but i should be at practice next tuesday