All,
Well that was an interesting curve ball that got thrown at me last night.
By curve ball I me learning curve. All in all it was great, frusterating(as I am sure some of you were aware of my level of frusteration) but great. I would like to thank everyone who helped out geting the night together. I would especially like to thank everyone who took time out of their already hectic night to lend, a hand, a tool or some advice. Just to let you know whether I appeared to be paying attention or not, I learned a lot with a whole lot more to learn. All that can be said is after finishing my first(almost whole) outdoor season sitting solidly in the "C" main, starting the 1/12 scale season in the "E"Main leaves a whole lot to be desired. Sure am going to miss the tuesday night practice/test and tunes.
Again thank you to everyone who helped out, with the night and especially to those who took time out of their schedule to help others(new and veteran).
Very thankful,
RYY
12th scale is definately a different beast to be sure! I unwisely and unsucessfully decided to run with the broken wheels the car came with which gave me a grand total of less than 16 minutes of driving time. Oh well next week won't come soon enough :)
Now that we have our batteries, motors and all the gear is already at our venue we should have more time to get more racing/practice in. Looking forward to getting some more track time in! Now if I can just figure out how to get my car to turn the same both ways...
On a regular night, the track is usually open for about 45 minutes of open practice. Usual schedule is the following:
4PM: Show up and setup the track.
5PM: Track is open for practice.
6PM: First round of qualifying.
7PM: Second round of qualifying.
8PM: Third round of qualifying.
9:15PM: Mains.
10:30PM: Cleanup.
11PM: Done.
Blake
For the record, I thought that ALL the newcomers did AMAZINGLY well last night. These guys were "thrown to the fire" so to speak:
Chris Avison
Cody Loughran
Jammin Jim (2nd 12th Scale race with IROCC)
Keith Anderson
Ken Nguyen
Kurk MacKay
Ryan Young
All these guys did themselves very proud on their first 12th Scale night! Adapting from lazy Touring Cars on twelve foot lanes to twitchy 12th Scale cars on 6 foot lanes is not an easy transition!
This Saturday the heats will arranged based off points so people will be racing in heats full of comparable drivers. Plus, we won't have to worry about tuning motors, building batteries, or trimming bodies. The track will be open for a 45 minute practice session where you'll have a chance to get some valuable track time. You'll also be able to use this time to get your car un-tweaked so that it'll turn equally in both directions. If anyone needs help with this then just come and ask me (or any other veteran) and we'll show you how to use the tweak board. Further, we'll run the usual three rounds of qualifying instead of the two we ran last night. So, that'll give you even more track time.
Blake
All in all I thought it was a great first night of racing! The facility is really quite good. The warmth was great, we didn't blow any circuits, and the parking wasn't too horrible. If we get the place until 11:30PM, and iron out a decent storage system then we'll be golden!
Oh, and great job everybody on the cleanup! That was very impressive!
Now, let's hope that they're just as happy with us. I'm a little worried about the noise we made, the condition the bathroom sinks were left in, and the fact that our dolly is way bigger than I made it out to be when negotiating the temporary hallway storage....
Anyway, I'm sure none of that stuff would really be a show stopper so it's not a big deal.
Blake
Oh, and one last thing: Last night we had 29 entries which is a modern day IROCC winter racing attendance record!
See everyone this weekend,
Blake
Thanks Blake for the kind words. I was impressed with the turnout and cleanup effort. For the record I "hate" 1/12th scale. (lol) My problem was new car blues unfortunately and I have already sorted out about 1/2 dozen of the problems that came up. Maybe I'll do better next time out. I do have a question for anyone that can tell me where I can get info on how to tune a 1/12th scale car. I have a tiny bit of residual info from the "old" days but residual info tends to be unreliable.
Thanks again and I'll see you all next Saturday.
Jim
Hey Jamming.
Go place to look for info or ask question, besides our Irocc Vet's. I would check out Rctech.net. then go to onroad. then go to 12 scale. Ask away. there always ready to answer your ???
Hope this help.
And I'll see you all next Weekend.
Hi, all.
I have an idea: we could meet for Pizza or a coffee and run a small workshop where we would simply bring one car, tweakboard and the requisite tools. Anyone could ask their questions and some of the interested veterans could show a few tips. This way we could socialize, keep it light, break bread, and learn without making things more zany in the 45 minute practice session. Any takers?
Phil
That's a great idea Phil. I'd be happy to attend tomorrow or Wednesday evening at BP. I know some stuff about chassis setup but Craig and Tom are really the most knowledgeable in the topic I would say.
Blake
I'm definatlely down with that. Not sure how soon I can do it though. Nicola just flew out to Kelowna to see her dad in ICU and I've got five of the six kids so any extra ciricular activities are on hold for now... keep me posted though...
id be in if i hada car, hopefully the new kit comes in at shaver for next weekend
To echo Jims comments; thank you Blake, for your tender loving words of encouragement. I could definetly use a tech session however due to firehall commitments I am unavailable everynight this week with the exception of Friday. How about meeting early on Saturday? We could meet with questions already prepared and hey I would even offer my foul driving car to be used as the set up/tune up test subject. Any thoughts.
My hope is the various parts I need to order will be available by next saturday!!
RYY
To echo Jims comments; thank you Blake, for your tender loving words of encouragement.
RC 51 (Phil); I could definetly use a tech session however due to firehall commitments I am unavailable everynight this week with the exception of Friday. How about meeting early on Saturday? We could meet with questions already prepared and hey I would even offer my foul driving car to be used as the set up/tune up test subject. Any thoughts.
My hope is the various parts I need to order from the Shaver shop will be available by next saturday!!
RYY
Hey I'm down with that. Sound like a good Idea actully. :D
I will check in with the B&G Club to see if we can get in an hour or two earlier.
Ryan, what parts do you need? Did you break something that will keep you out of the races on Saturday?
Let me know,
Blake
I got a question about my spur gear. As you all heard in the main my spur gear was making horible noise but knowing me, I didn't stop until the car would not move anymore. Anyways, I went the the hobbies shop and picked up a couple of gears (64 pitch). These are not CRC parts so they looked a little different. Well, I put one of them on anyways, i found that I can only use some of the ball bearing. I have 2 left over, because I could not fit anymore on the new spur gear. On top of that, the ball bearing are sitting further outside from the center then the OEM spur gear. This in turn, I can see half of the ball bearing sticking out of the steal diff or clutch plate (not sure what to call it). Is this going to work for me or do I need to buy the correct spur gears? Everything seems to be working ok but I am worry about the correct operation and performance. Please help.
Ken
Guys here is a copy of some notes I keep based on posts by Frank and his team on the TeamCRC website. This is an un-edited verion I will clean it up and we can add too it during the next tutorial or test and tune and then post an edited version.
Jody...
Carpet knife Setup Tips
Front Tires:
- Start Purple front tire black for high-bite conditions
- Tire traction - 1/4 to 1/3 of the front tire, on the inside portion of surface. CRC Down Force. If your car has too much steering use less wash.
Rear Tire
- Start with Gray rear tire or white rear if slippery. Pink in extreme low grip conditions or on asphalt.
- Full rear tire traction - let soak for 20 minutes. Team CRC Down Force recommended.
-Small diameter for high-bite, large for low bite
Car width
All CRC cars come with the rear width at ROAR maximum, which is where you'll want to leave it. ROAR rules say 172mm in the rear (about 6.75"), that would be 86mm out to the edge of each wheel from the center of the car. Im not sure about a measurement on the front end, but typically for lower grip club racing I run the car stock with unflanged bearings in the wheel and no shims on the axle (you may have to put a shim or two on the axle to get the play out). At big high grip races like Cleveland or Snowbirds I usually put a flanged bearing on the inside of the wheel, and 2 thick 1/8" shims on the axle. It helps prevent traction rolling when the grip is really high. Sometimes depending on a tracks teching equipment, CRC cars can be a little too wide in the rear. Removing one of the rear axle shims from the left side will cure that problem.
Tire size
typically, we always run a bigger rear tire to start out with. A) because they wear faster than fronts, & B) because more side wall usually is more side bite. As far as rake, this varies depending on the track & driver preference. It is pretty rare to have the front lower than the rear. this makes the weight transfer to the front too much and the car will be loose, especially on entry. usually you'll want the same ride height front and rear, or maybe .5 mm higher in the front. Tires are really only too small once you can't make ride height anymore, &/or the edges start flaking off the rim, whichever comes first. On high bite tracks, you may like the smaller tires better as they free up the car in the corner. However on lower bite tracks, bigger side walls will provide more grip and hold grip longer later in the run.
Springs
Rear Springs
preload on the center spring is used only for setting ride height. if you want the car stiffer or softer, you need to change the spring. a stiffer center spring usually makes the car steer more. the only place this really doesn't hold true is if the track is very bumpy. because the car is too stiff, it is chattering in the bumps and losing traction. - Center shock â€" Kit shiny silver spring for bumps. Use the optional Red (#1340) spring for increased steering response. Next is the optional Copper (#1341) for more steering on smooth tracks. The CRC SS (stiff silver) spring (1342) is stiffer yet, then the stiffest, for lots of steering on super smooth tracks with high grip, CRC SSS (super-stiff silver) spring #(1343) - 35 weight silicone oil - Adjust the center shock length so that the rear pod droops slightly below the plane of the chassis when held in the air. No more than 1mm droop. When using the, CRC SS, and SSS springs, set up the rear droop at zero. - Adjust the shock spring preload until the chassis and rear pod piece form a straight line when full loaded and race ready. Shock spring... stiffer = more mid and exit steering.
Olive Green - 6
Silver (vcs, not crc) - 8
Blue - 10
Gold - 12
Red - 14
Copper - 16
CRC Stiff Silver
CRC Super Stiff Silver
Side Springs
Side Springs... Stiffer equals more initial turn in, less chassis roll and more steering response (although most noticeable around center). side springs control how reactive the car is around center. a stiffer side spring will make the car twitchy around center, but not necessarily make it steer more all around. - Start with white side springs, orange + blue for more rear grip, red for more turn in, then green,
then purple. Red is good for advanced drivers wanting lots of steering. We rarely use purple. Very little preload on side springs, just enough to tweak the car flat. The side of the car with more weight will require more tension on the rear spring on that side. - Shims,....all free play shimmed out...but no pre-load on the spring.
1295 - Side Spring- Blue - Soft
1296 - Side Spring- White - Med
1297 - Side Spring- Red - firm
1298 - Side Spring- Green X-firm
1299 - Side Spring Purple XX-Firm
Front Springs
Softer = more steering, Harder = less steering (18 = soft 22 = harder). Softer means that there is more weight transfer as you let off the throttle and the tires can steer more with more grip. A harder spring allows less weight transfer and therefore less steering.
1392 - .018 Front Spring-12th - (2)
1393 - .020 Front Spring-12th (2)
1394 - .022 Front Spring-12th
1395 - .024 Front Spring-12th
Raising shock mount (batteries in and out smoothly)
I usually put about 4 or 5 shims under the front ball stud (.060 - .075) and that gives just enough clearance to get a 4 cell pack in and out without popping the shock off. raising the front of the shock is suppose to reduce steering, but it must be a very small amount cause i have no trouble getting tons of steering out of my car.
Geometry changes
Camber... more will add front steering, to a point. Camber effects are very dependant on track grip.
Caster... more will add steering when the wheels are turned a substantial amount. Lots of caster usually makes the car "softer" to drive around the center point of the steering, but steer hard at full throw.
Springs...stiffer = less steering, may feel like more rear grip.
Toe... a little out = more steering and less straight line stability. Start: No Toe in, slightly toed out if at all...
Shock and Damper Tube Oil
Shock oil... not much effect here. Just heavy enough to damp the shock over the bumps. If very smooth, run a heavier shock oil. If too heavy on a bumpy track, the shock will not respond quickly enough. 20-40 weight should work
Tubes... must be tested on the track. Sometimes heavy is more traction and easier to drive, other times it is less traction and twitchier. - - refill every 3 races. Thicker oil is twitchier usually, thinner is less twitchy. Side spring and damper fluid changes have similar effects. Whatever you udo make sure there is fluid in the tubes. Frank suggests a change every 3 heats..
Differential Building
Lets start fresh to show the true potential of a great diff...
*** 3 new CRC 1/4 x 3/8 flanged bearings (must be CRC bearings, try others back to back, you will see why)
*** 2 new CRC 1/4 x 3/8 flanged bearings (again, use ours)
*** 2 new Large "D" rings (ours, IRS, Associated)
*** 1 pack of our cheap 1/8" diff balls (we have a good deal on a bag of 100)
*** 1 new spur gear (our gear is better for a free diff and stock racing, Kimbrough is better for mod racing, slightly less free)
Use the left wheel hub/wheel combination as a holder for the assembly. Put the axle in the left diff hub with the "D" ring seat face up. Place 1 new D ring on the seat and set it in the machined pocket.
Load the outer ring of holes with the 1/8" balls. Pop them in. Place 1 small "dot" of white Associated diff lube (NOT STEALTH!) on each ball. Just a little dab while do. Now, put a new unflanged bearing in the inner and a new flanged bearing in the outer part of the diff hub. Use another couple of dabs of diff grease to hold the D ring to the diff hub as you put it on the assembly. Slide the diff hub/ring on, making sure the ring stays seated in its machined area on the hub.
Now, put a small shim over the axle. Then the aluminum spacer/collar. Then the spring washer with the cone pointing out (or at you). Then the lock nut. Tighten the lock nut SLOWLY... especially as the assembly begins to tighten and the rings are being pressed to the diff balls. Overtightening here will ruin the outer bearing in the hub. As you tighten the diff nut, check it by holding the left wheel in your left hand, hold the right wheel in your right hand. Push the gear with your right thumb, if it "slips" it's too loose. Once it's tightened to the point of no slipping (AND NO FURTHER), install the axle in the car and apply 2 volts to the motor. Hold the left wheel for a minute or so, then release and hold the right wheel as the motors spins and the diff breaks in. Check to see if you can now slip the spur gear with your right thumb and tighten until you you can not do so (And NO FURTHER). Now your diff is ready to use and should last for a number of race meetings.
Good luck.
Thanks for choosing CRC.
Frank Calandra
Tom Firsching
John Firsching
Ken
Your diff will be fine with less balls, some spur gears have a different configuration. As long as the ball isnt riding on th edge (balls must be rolling on the flat surface obviuosly) of the diff ring you should be ok.
Jody
You're probably fine Ken. I think it's quite common to be able to see about a third of each diff ball extending outside the circumference of the diff ring. Just be sure that the diff balls are definitely running against the surface of the metal diff rings.
Sometimes the spur gear will have two sets of holes: an inner set and an outer set. Correspondingly, there are two sizes of diff rings: small and large. Use the inner holes in the spur gear for the small diff rings, and the outer holes for the large diff rings.
As for the number of diff balls... different gears have different numbers of holes. Six and eight holes are the most common. It doesn't really matter - just fill up the entire inner set, or the entire outer set with diff balls.
Blake
Quote from: "SgRddY"I got a question about my spur gear. As you all heard in the main my spur gear was making horible noise but knowing me, I didn't stop until the car would not move anymore. Anyways, I went the the hobbies shop and picked up a couple of gears (64 pitch). These are not CRC parts so they looked a little different.
There's nothing special about any particular brand of spur gear for these cars; the spur gears are a pretty standard part.
There are two styles of diff; old-school (originally on the first R/C 10, which came out about 20 years ago), and stealth, based on a better transmission for the R/C 10 that came out around 15 years ago.
The old-school uses the same diff ball radius as the original R/C 10, and the stealth uses the same diff ball radius as the Stealth transmission interal diff, which was based on the diameter of spur gear mounting holes, which was in turn based on the mounting holes for 1/12 scale wheels.
Robinson, Kimbrough, Paragon, Associated, Trinity, and many other R/C car parts manufacturers make standard gears that will fit most R/C cars out there; most cars have interchangable spur gears, but a few kinds require special gears.
Quote from: "SgRddY"Well, I put one of them on anyways, i found that I can only use some of the ball bearing. I have 2 left over, because I could not fit anymore on the new spur gear.
The number of diff balls doesn't really matter all that much. You need at least 3. Many people will run a diff with lots of empty holes; other people will fill every hole they can.
Quote from: "SgRddY"On top of that, the ball bearing are sitting further outside from the center then the OEM spur gear. This in turn, I can see half of the ball bearing sticking out of the steal diff or clutch plate (not sure what to call it). Is this going to work for me or do I need to buy the correct spur gears?
What matters is if the diff balls are running on the surface of the diff ring. If they are running on the edge of the diff rings, that won't work. Also, if they are running over a notch in the diff ring (in case you are using a stealth diff with D-rings), you'll have to try a different arrangement. Many spur gears will have 2 sets of holes; the inner holes are for the Stealth style diff, and the outer holes are for the old-school diff. The correct spur gear is one that is the right size, and that has the right set of holes for your style diff. Some spur gears will have a slightly different hole radius than others; this allows you to re-use worn-out diff rings, since the balls will be running in a new groove.
Quote from: "SgRddY"Everything seems to be working ok but I am worry about the correct operation and performance. Please help.
If everything seems to be working ok, then don't worry about it. Like I said in a previous post, 1/12 scale cars tend to have many interchangable parts with other brands of cars, and tend to be qute standardized. Most 1/12 scale cars (including all models of the Carpet Knife) will work perfectly fine with any standard spur gear made in the last 20 years.
Hey Jody, That's more like what I'm looking for. Good stuff!!
I checked with the Boys and Girls Club today to see if we can get into the gym any earlier than 4PM. Unfortunately there is group of wheelchair basketball players that have the gym reserved until 3:30PM every Saturday afternoon.
So, the best we can do is show up at 3:30PM, and hopefully have the track built by 4:30PM. That would give an hour and a half for a testing/tuning.
Oh, and they're going to check into the possibility of setting the alarm for 11:30PM instead of 11:00PM.
See ya all Saturday,
Blake
Why don't we get the alarm set for 12:00 instead of 11:30. If we are going to ask to have it changed we may as well make it worth our while....
Blake,
Has there been any discussion on making an earlier say 3:30 offical start time rather than running later?
RYY
Ryan we cant start too early as some people work Saturday. But we could get setup and practice for longer.
Jody,
I would agree with that, if it were at all possible and if it were of interest by a majority of the club. I would hate to see just you and I doing all of the set up!!!HAHAHa However with my track record of helping set up in the summer series I am sure a few folks would like to see me set up and tear down by myself once in a while.
For those who are legitimately working on saturdays it would be nice to have everything set up and we race as soon as they arrive. A question to ask would be; How many poeple are working on saturdays and what time could they arrive?
RYY
Hey all,
I asked about the alarm but unfortunately it cannot be changed. This means that we're going to have to keep to our schedule during the night. It sucks to run only two qualifiers instead of three so let's have everyone make an effort to be ready to run (and marshal) when they're supposed to.
Ideal schedule:
3:30PM Arrive
3:45PM Start track setup
4:30PM Track is open for practice
5:45PM First round of qualifying
6:45PM Second round of qualifying
7:45PM Third round of qualifying
9:00PM Main events
10:15PM Cleanup
10:45PM Prizes
10:50PM Out the door
Blake
Did we get any feedback about noise levels/garbage/cart in the hallway?
Hehe, no, we didn't get any negative feedback which is great! I went in there this morning and the cart was just where we left it. And I guess the neighbours weren't too bothered by the noise. I didn't notice any garbage problems on Saturday. It seemed like we cleaned up pretty well.
That said, this weekend I think we should make a conscious effort to keep the gym doors closed. If you're out there smoking then just leave the door open a tiny crack. Gross smoke smells were coming into the gym last Saturday apparently.
Oh, and I think we definitely need to be a little quieter at the end of the night when leaving. Maybe save your exciting race stories for BP, or at least for when you're down at street level.
Thanks all!
Blake
It would be nice to have the door(s) opened to let some of the traction wash fumes out. I had a head ache by the middle of the night.... maybe if the smokers stood around the corner or a few feet away from the door way....
Must be a 1/12 scale rookie if you can't handle the fumes.
Us old-timers are so hooked on the fumes we can't get enough!
Yea but I need all three of my brain cells. That at least keeps me from wetting my pants while I race...
Yes I actually enjoy the smell. This TQ stuff is pretty tame though, I would be surprised if it was the source of your headache in a huge room like the gym.
Paragon, now that is a pleasant smell IMHO. seriously.
haddow
what smell? i don't smell anything. by the way, thanks for all your help guys about the spur gear.
I've never minded it myself either, and Tamara loves it!
Oh I love the smell of oil of wintergreen - mmmm my favorite Lifesavers... - its the other stuff in there that gets me...
Try three racers (a combined six 12th Scale cars) using Paragon in a small hotel room (which had no opening windows) for five days straight in Cleveland. On the last day I don't think I could taste my "Champs" burger!
Blake
yep, cant wait to do it again. Champs burgers and Paragon, awesome!
At least I wont have to listen to Craig snore this year.
Now Jeff Dayger has to listen to me snore all night. Frank will probably ask me to leave since his top driver is now not going to get any sleep! LOL.
Hi, all.
In Vegas the handout traction wash was Corally's "Jack the Gripper." it has zero odour and we had 430 people pitting in one area for 6 days roughly 18 hours a day. I had one headache and it was Tamiya-induced. I'll bring some on Saturday should anyone want to check it out. It seems to be readily available insofar as I only had to go to Keith to pick it up.
Phil
I have actually placed little droplets of TQ8 around my house just to keep my senses heightened for the coming race day.
Seriously a breeze thru the gym late in the evening was nice, I could however do without the smoke and other non cigarette odours coming thru the back door.
On to another tangent now. I am wondering if someone can explain to me exactly how dual rate, end point adjustment, and exponential all work. I understand end point adjustment however it does not make sense why you would not want to max out your EPA. In my impression if I dial down my dual rate it dials down my epa so why have both. Also with my car I have to have different EPA (right to left) inorder to get my car to turn equal radiuses in each direction. Also I can not get my car to go perfectly straight. I can get it close setting my trim to the right however it will still not let the car go straight. Any and all assistance would be great. Also who out there is using a JRXS3 controller and how have you set your EPA, exponential and dual rate(for those of you with this controller PM me and let me know)
(Jody, I know most of the thread is not specifically about 1/12 scale, move me if you have to)
Thanx
RYY
PM Sent, RYY.
Phil
Steering setup
1) Move your dual rate wheel to 125% (max)
2) Now adjust your EPA so that at full steering wheel throw the wheels are just at the end of their maximum range (throw). In most cases the servo has more throw than your steering linkage assembly so if you leave the EPA at 100% (or where ever) the servo could actually be pushing the steering past where it can physically go. IE you are stressing the servo and could break stuff. Do this on each side. Adjust the EPA so the wheels just stop moving (as they start to bind at maximum throw). It doesnt matter if one side requires more or less EPA just get them so you are not stressing stuff, although the more symetrical the better as you will see in a minute. You should also give the wheel a spin when you are at what you think is the maximum range, if they bind or touch anything, reduce the EPA some more.
3) Now move the dual rate dial back down to 80 or 90%.
4) Go out on the track and and do nice slow circles each way with the steering wheel cranked. Adjust the dual rate wheel now so that you can turn around in approx 3/4 of a lane. Make sure the radius of your circle is the same both left and right when the steering wheel is cranked. If it is not the same radius then go back to the EPA and turn it down on the side that had the larger radius circle.(if you do the opposite you will be binding up the steering because you already set it at its maximum)
5) Now when you are racing use ONLY the dual rate wheel to add steering if your car is tight or turn it down if your car is twitchy and loose.
6) EPA is for initial setup only. Dual rate then changes the steering throw equally on bith sides so you can add more or less steering as you need it. That is why EPA and dual rate are NOT redundant as you initially thought. Dual rate is a bad nomenclature taken from airplane transmitters, I can show you on mine where the terminology came from and it makes a little more sense.
7) The reason you set the EPA at 125% dual rate is so that in the future if you crank your dual rate too maximum you can not damge your servo or steering assembly.
8) If you find you need 125% dual rate to get around the track after following the above steps then you need to make suspension adjustments (springs etc) and find extra steering that way, full throw is not the way you want to be driving. Also never put on full tire wash on the fronts if you find your car twitchy.
9) using someone elses settings with the same radio is definatley not going to be fruitfull, especially if that person is not running the same chassis and servo etc etc etc.
peace
A common cause for having to adjust your EPA to get equal steering in both directions is from failing to have symmetrical steering geometry.
It is important that the servo saver be centered in the car, and have the tie-rods adjusted so that the servo saver is vertical when the tires are pointing straight ahead. If either of these conditions aren't met, then the geometry will dictate that you will have differential steering throw, and compensating for this with EPA settings is a stopgap measure at best.
It is possible also that you are having these problems due to mistakes in building the car. Either that, or your servo turns different angles to the left and right; something that can be independently verified by analyzing the servo throw. If the servo is traveling the same amount to each side of center and your car has different turning radii left and right, then this is clearly a geometry issue.
As far as exponential is concerned, I alway leave that setting alone, since it interferes with how I am trying to control the car.
Oh yah, I also didn't send a PM to RYY about this topic. Did anyone else either send or not send a PM about this to anyone in particular?
Inquiring minds really want to know.
As above, I did.
Phil
I was having problems with steering on my car as well. Since last week was pretty much panic mode all night I tried setting up my steering with the EPA, etc. I found I was 62% one way and 110% the other to get the steering to turn both ways equally. It seemed odd to me since the linkage and the servo horn were equal and centered. I adjusted the steering center on the radio since the splines on the servo saver only give limited positions. It seemed odd that although the geometry was OK that I would have to give one side so much EPA to get it to turn properly both ways. Without it I was getting a 3' diameter one way and 6' the other - no wonder the first race was so crazy!
Anyhow I got home put two pieces of tape on the floor and lined it up. Turned the EPA adjustment to 75% both sides (after some messing around) leaving the geometery untouched. Turned the dual rate back to about 70% and it turns within about a cm in a 3 foot diameter. Yay! Not sure why this worked but perhaps it points to the EPA should be close to each other. Perhaps the response isn't linear esp when it was all the way down to 62%....
Some say, like Craig, that you do the end point thing like i described and then see which EPA is lower and set the other side to the same value, Frank Calandra disagrees. it doesnt really matter as long as you dont throw the wheel too far and that your circles on the track are dialed in equally.
Reminder for everyone to show up to racing at 3:30PM tomorrow afternoon. The doors will already be open because the wheelchair basketball people will have been in there all afternoon up until 3:30PM. If we're quick and everyone does their part, we can have the track ready for practice by 4:15PM.
See ya all at 3:30PM tomorrow,
Blake