Car Setup - ride height, etc

[Grinder]

Ok I think I've got the ride height figured out sort of...

To adjust the front ride height you use the 1.5 mm Al shims.  Can/do you adjust the caster by raising the front shims higher than the rear?  If so is there a formula for the degrees of caster added per 1.5mm shim?  Do we need caster because the cars already have so much steering.  Regardless will caster increase the camber when turning and keep the car from pushing?

To adjust the rear you use the axel bearing carriers.  I have the #1 that came with my car and I'd like to drop it 1mm (new rears).  Will the #2 drop or raise and if so how much.  Anyone have an extra set they would be willing to part with the Shaver shop didn't have any in (shock of shocks...)

When adjusting the ride height with the shock collar do you want the height of the rear wheels to be equal to where the rear pod plate and main chasis join?

[haddow]

Can/do you adjust the caster by raising the front shims higher than the rear? If so is there a formula for the degrees of caster added per 1.5mm shim? Do we need caster because the cars already have so much steering. Regardless will caster increase the camber when turning and keep the car from pushing?

you are on the wrong track a bit here. Caster is adjusted by moving the shims on the kingpin of the upper front control arm.(white plastic bits) It makes the car steer more at full throw when the control arm is pushed back (shims to the front). Caster changes will affect camber especially at full throw. If your car is twitchy you can move both shims to the front (stock setup is one on each side). this will tone down the initial turn in.

As far as camber setting as a tuning adjustment, most people just tune the camber for nice even tire wear just like outdoors. But i know you are definatley not "most people"

To adjust the rear you use the axel bearing carriers. I have the #1 that came with my car and I'd like to drop it 1mm (new rears). Will the #2 drop or raise and if so how much. Anyone have an extra set they would be willing to part with the Shaver shop didn't have any in (shock of shocks...)

I have extras, I dont know how much difference there is between each adjuster but they are numbered in order. I have a random array of them come see me.

When adjusting the ride height with the shock collar do you want the height of the rear wheels to be equal to where the rear pod plate and main chasis join?

You are sort of adjusting ride height with the collar but not really. The front alluminum shims and rear bearing carriers dictate ride height. You only adjust the preload (collar) to make the chassis flat when resting (with batteries installed). When you pick the car up by the antenna the rear pod should droop 1 mm. if it droops more than that shorten your shock and vice versa. The preload is JUST to make the car flat (or if you must think of it as a ride height adjuster you need to raise or lower the middle of the car so it is the same height as the front and rear.)

[Tom]

you are on the wrong track a bit here. Caster is adjusted by moving the shims on the kingpin of the upper front control arm.(white plastic bits)

Hinge pin, not king pin.  The king pin is the near-vertical shaft that is coaxial with the steering axis.

The caster is adjusted with old cars by adding shims under the suspension arms (thicker in the front than the rear), and with the reactive caster front end, by adjusting the shims that control the orientation of the upper arm, like Jody said.

[serpent]

Hinge pin, not king pin.

10-4 on that good buddy, speaking of the king pin...

it is another very important maintenance and tuning point. The front spring is changed here (remember softer = more steering, harder is less) The spring, steering block, control arms, and a number of shims ride on the king pin. It is the number of shims that is essential. Different spring sets can be slightly different heights and they often compress after a hard board hit and become shorter. In this case more shims (or new springs) are needed. Add shims to the top of the king pin until there is no slop up and down on the king pin assembly. Dont add too many to the point where you are starting to compress the spring, just enough to take up all of the slop.

Jody (sitting at Craigs computer)