New to nitro questions.

Started by BCbud, August 19, 2014, 09:56:40 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Shawn68z

Quote from: BCbud on August 22, 2014, 06:22:45 PM
I always try to build my shocks with little to no rebound.

One thing I noticed in my limmited run time is it was not easy to slowly apply the throttle out of a corner, does anyone use expo on there transmitters?

Neil.

Nope not me. Alot of how the feels out of the corner can be changed with clutch and gearing adjustments.

Shawn.

valk

it all comes down to feeling the throttle. you could practice just getting enough throttle into it to engage the clutch.

i dont run any expo now, but i did when i was first starting out with mod cars. you more or less blip the throttle between corners and let the car roll where it needs to go.

as for rebound, for carpet you don't want any rebound but its commonly accepted that most outdoor tracks unless they are SUPER smooth concrete prefer a small amount of rebound.

Blake

Quote from: BCbud on August 22, 2014, 06:22:45 PM
I always try to build my shocks with little to no rebound.

One thing I noticed in my limmited run time is it was not easy to slowly apply the throttle out of a corner, does anyone use expo on there transmitters?

Neil.

I use some Expo on the throttle to try to gain a little more feel/control in the low ranges.  Your clutch setting can override any Expo setting though if it's really late to engage.

Blake

Shawn68z

Quote from: Blake on August 22, 2014, 10:09:20 PM
Quote from: BCbud on August 22, 2014, 06:22:45 PM
I always try to build my shocks with little to no rebound.

One thing I noticed in my limmited run time is it was not easy to slowly apply the throttle out of a corner, does anyone use expo on there transmitters?

Neil.

I use some Expo on the throttle to try to gain a little more feel/control in the low ranges.  Your clutch setting can override any Expo setting though if it's really late to engage.

Blake

Late to engage? You mean maximizing the engines power curve right?

Shawn.

valk

or burning gears.. whichever way you wanna look at it heh.

Shawn68z

Quote from: valk on August 23, 2014, 01:24:33 AM
or burning gears.. whichever way you wanna look at it heh.


Na... The only time I have ever blown a gear because of the clutch was because of the clutch gap was to large, and allowed the clutch to slip.  The high rpm engagement is hard on the thrust bearing though.....  Just don't have that gap to big and it will be fine...


Shawn.

valk

yea i went through three thrusts before i figured out my nt1 clutch. the one im using is actually broken.. the cage is broken, but it still thrusts so leaving it the frack alone til i get a replacement.
high engagement can be tough to handle though. lites up the tires too easily. i personally like the clutch to come on soon, so you can roll onto the throttle gently and get the full rpm range of use.
of course depends on the shoe you are using as well.

Tom

Quote from: BCbud on August 22, 2014, 06:22:45 PM
One thing I noticed in my limmited run time is it was not easy to slowly apply the throttle out of a corner, does anyone use expo on there transmitters?
Yep.

Tom

The power dissipated by the clutch when slipping is proportional to the square of the RPM. So, a higher engagement point means more temperature in your clutch, which increases the likelihood of melting gears.

Shawn68z

Quote from: Tom on August 23, 2014, 02:14:41 PM
The power dissipated by the clutch when slipping is proportional to the square of the RPM. So, a higher engagement point means more temperature in your clutch, which increases the likelihood of melting gears.

Its a linear relationship.   If your clutch is slipping enough to make the gears blow, its because the gap is set wrong and cant fully engage, when my clutch has been set for a high engagement point, I have never blown a gear, but it can be a handfull when the traction is low....(Definitely had a hard time with it in last weeks race!).  If the track has high enough traction, it can definitely be worth it to have the clutch engage at a higher rpm, esp if you have a tall set of gears on.


HEAT (watts)  =  TORQUE (lb.-in.)   X   SLIP RPM   X   0.012

Shawn.

Tom

It appears you're right in that it is a linear relationship.

That does not change the conclusion though that an engagement point that is too high will generate damaging temperatures.

Shawn68z

#26
Quote from: Tom on August 26, 2014, 10:17:07 AM
It appears you're right in that it is a linear relationship.

That does not change the conclusion though that an engagement point that is too high will generate damaging temperatures.

Before or after the gears explode, belts break, and bearings are smashed thru the clutch bell?    The only time the clutch bell is going to get hot enough to melt a gear is if the gap is set wrong. The engagement point will not make enough heat, but a high engagement point is definately harder on all the drive line components, esp the belts, thrust bearing, and con-rod.  Your more likely to snap something, or strip a belt before anything melts.   But saying all that, its still another adjustment that can be used to set the car up for maximum acceleration based on the amount of grip available.

Sorry for hijacking your thread Neil, but here is some clutch info.   There is lots out there.

http://www.bukupower.com/ClutchTuning2.aspx



Cheers,
Shawn.

BCbud

OK more questions, I am looking at RC Mushroom for both the header to motor and header to pipe gaskets. They list the following for my OS motor.

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php/zeppin-racing-gasket-pcs-novarbsirioosstsorion-p-10198
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php/zeppin-racing-gasket-pcs-novarbsirioosstsorion-p-10199
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php/zeppin-racing-gasket-pcs-novarbsirioosstsorion-p-10197

Are these all header to motor gaskets? There is no discription or size given. I would assume that they are header to moter gaskets because it is for a specific motor. If that is the case where do I find the header to pipe gaskets?

Thanks Neil.
Xray T4 2013 Touring Stock - Xray T4 2013 VTA - Xray NT1 - CRC Gen-X10  - CRC GEN-X - CRC GEN-XI - Traxxas Slash 4X4 with LCG conversion - RC8Be  - Xray XB4  - DX3R-PRO
Recycled teenager.
XLR8!

Blake

Hey Neil,

Those *appear* to be motor-header gaskets.  Finding replacements for your header-pipe connection is tough.  I have used .21 motor-header gaskets in the past but they seem slightly too small.  I'd like to find a source for proper replacement header-pipe gaskets.

Blake

Shawn68z


Niel, I have various types. I will bring them next race, and figure out what you need. I normally use .21 like Blake mentioned, but again there are different types and sizes.   If you want to try them before race day then send me a pm and we can meet up for coffee.


Shawn.