carpet knife

jarrodH · October 03, 2005, 06:54:37 PM

hey i have for sale a version 3 CRC carpet knife, comes with original box instructions, aswell as a fairly good front tires and a bran new set of rears on the car, and a few bodies, newwer rear axle replaced about 2/3rd of the way thrtough last season($45+). solidly in the b main with me as rookie driver.has awesome barings and ride height adusters for the rear

all for $125

jarrodH · October 05, 2005, 08:59:48 PM

i just found that ill need the rear ride hieght adjusters for the rear so ill be keeping those, but this will be a pair of them installed on the car, i will also include a spare raer axle and hub, a front lower controll arm, a pair of front controll arm mounts, a spare shock, a servo saver,servo mounts, battery o ring, spare front and rear tires, 64 pitch 96 tooth spur gear, and titainium axles instaled, a very wise upgrade when first starting , i broke 2 stock front axles in practice in the same night, before i even sarted racing. just ready for the motor and your electronis

can be used with a standard size servo, i have been

Mikemuncher · October 06, 2005, 10:41:55 PM

You have p.m. :roll:

Grinder · October 06, 2005, 11:47:16 PM

Is it a 3.1?

jarrodH · October 07, 2005, 12:02:17 AM

i didnt get the pm there mike send again

and kurk its a version 3.0

haddow · October 07, 2005, 12:02:23 AM

yes his is a 3.1 I believe, which for all intents and purposes is the same as a 3.2 except a 3.2 has lowered pod plates so you can run your tires to the rim. Running tires that low is pointless on a low-bite track like ours so a 3.1 is as good as a 3.2 in every respect. The 3.2 also has a larger diameter diff which is 100% intended to benefit the modified racer not the stock racer.

for the record a 3.2 would have come with purple and grey tires vs green and blues on a 3.1 but since it likely doesnt have stock tires it doesnt matter.

A 3.2R which was just made available last year has a narrower chassis (by a very small margin) and thicker graphite as well as a lower roll center middle pivot and lowered top grahite plate/brace. A new version not yet available has movable battery slots so you can move the batteries forward or back and a better centre shock that doesnt come apart so easily.

Point = on a low bite surface and stock motor all advances in the chassis since 3.1 are pretty much not going to make any difference to the average racer or even top racer in our club. If anything a stiffer, lower-roll centre car might be worse.

Dont tell Frank I said that,.. but seriously the improvements are definatley geared to the competitive racer at large events with sick amounts of traction and a modified motor.
peace

RYY · October 07, 2005, 01:21:28 AM

Thanks for that explanation Jody, could you go one step further.. How does one know the difference between a 3.0 and a 3.1 I was told I was buying a used 3.1 but the boxes I have state that it is a 3.0
RYY

jarrodH · October 07, 2005, 01:34:44 AM

i suggest goin my the box

still for sale

haddow · October 07, 2005, 02:56:40 AM

3.0 is before my time but if it is newer than a 3.1 it should have two damper tubes and the rear pod plates should be metal on one side and plastic on the other. I could be wrong.

jarrodH · October 07, 2005, 10:56:09 AM

ya your partly right jody, it does have the 2 damper tudes but both the bulkheads are aluminum

i also found instructions for converting a 12L to a knife

Tom · October 07, 2005, 01:07:32 PM

Perhaps many of the people in the club nowadays don't realize this, but many parts are interchangable between several different brands of 1/12 scale cars.

If you're saying that the only difference between a couple cars is what bulkheads it has, well, that's not much of a difference at all. It is common practise to replace bulkheads with different ones for different reasons.

All the differences between the carpet knives that people are talking about are so subtle, with the exception of the newer, lower model, that you could convert your car from one model to the other by changing only a couple parts with others that are interchangable.

I get the impression from the discussions on the forum in the last few days that many people feel the differences in the 1/12 scale cars are far more significant than they really are. The biggest difference is the color of the aluminum; if you really think that'll make you faster, then go ahead and worry about it. I'll just kick your butt with my cobbled-together car, with 12L lowered bulkheads, and old-school rear axle.

Grinder · October 07, 2005, 01:16:14 PM

Everyone knows red is the fastest color...

haddow · October 07, 2005, 02:51:30 PM

two metal bulkheads doesnt signify a 3.0, I meant if it is a one-peice metal bulhead (both side joined as one peice) then that is super old-school.

haddow · October 07, 2005, 02:57:43 PM

tom is correct many 12th scale cars from many manufacturers are based on the 12L. most kits you can buy are not even full kits, they are conversions for a 12L.

A 3.0, 3.1 or 3.2 (or 12L or etc etc etc) can all get the job done. A 3.0 may be a little on the old side but spending time and effort to go from a 3.1 to 3.2 is really only for those people who like the bling. (most people LOL).

I would still be racing my 3.0 if I were not associated with Frank. I would suggest practcing to go faster rather than spending money but we dont have opportunity to practice indoors, so spend away, and yes red does look damn fast.

Tom · October 07, 2005, 06:47:05 PM

Quote from: "haddow"two metal bulkheads doesnt signify a 3.0, I meant if it is a one-peice metal bulhead (both side joined as one peice) then that is super old-school.

Aah. My brother had (still has I think) one of those bulkheads. That was always offered as an aftermarket part as far as I can remember.

If he doesn't still have it, then that means he sold it to Mike Allen.