First night of Racing 1/12th scale.......................

Grinder · October 12, 2005, 08:44:42 PM

It would be nice to have the door(s) opened to let some of the traction wash fumes out. I had a head ache by the middle of the night.... maybe if the smokers stood around the corner or a few feet away from the door way....

Tom · October 12, 2005, 10:12:44 PM

Must be a 1/12 scale rookie if you can't handle the fumes.

Us old-timers are so hooked on the fumes we can't get enough!

Grinder · October 12, 2005, 10:41:47 PM

Yea but I need all three of my brain cells. That at least keeps me from wetting my pants while I race...

haddow · October 12, 2005, 10:54:39 PM

Yes I actually enjoy the smell. This TQ stuff is pretty tame though, I would be surprised if it was the source of your headache in a huge room like the gym.

Paragon, now that is a pleasant smell IMHO. seriously.

haddow

SgRddY · October 13, 2005, 12:08:29 AM

what smell? i don't smell anything. by the way, thanks for all your help guys about the spur gear.

Tom · October 13, 2005, 12:33:17 AM

I've never minded it myself either, and Tamara loves it!

Grinder · October 13, 2005, 01:09:06 AM

Oh I love the smell of oil of wintergreen - mmmm my favorite Lifesavers... - its the other stuff in there that gets me...

Blake · October 13, 2005, 03:09:13 AM

Try three racers (a combined six 12th Scale cars) using Paragon in a small hotel room (which had no opening windows) for five days straight in Cleveland. On the last day I don't think I could taste my "Champs" burger!

Blake

haddow · October 13, 2005, 09:52:34 AM

yep, cant wait to do it again. Champs burgers and Paragon, awesome!

At least I wont have to listen to Craig snore this year.

Now Jeff Dayger has to listen to me snore all night. Frank will probably ask me to leave since his top driver is now not going to get any sleep! LOL.

RC51 · October 13, 2005, 11:56:22 AM

Hi, all.

In Vegas the handout traction wash was Corally's "Jack the Gripper." it has zero odour and we had 430 people pitting in one area for 6 days roughly 18 hours a day. I had one headache and it was Tamiya-induced. I'll bring some on Saturday should anyone want to check it out. It seems to be readily available insofar as I only had to go to Keith to pick it up.

Phil

RYY · October 13, 2005, 12:03:51 PM

I have actually placed little droplets of TQ8 around my house just to keep my senses heightened for the coming race day.
Seriously a breeze thru the gym late in the evening was nice, I could however do without the smoke and other non cigarette odours coming thru the back door.

On to another tangent now. I am wondering if someone can explain to me exactly how dual rate, end point adjustment, and exponential all work. I understand end point adjustment however it does not make sense why you would not want to max out your EPA. In my impression if I dial down my dual rate it dials down my epa so why have both. Also with my car I have to have different EPA (right to left) inorder to get my car to turn equal radiuses in each direction. Also I can not get my car to go perfectly straight. I can get it close setting my trim to the right however it will still not let the car go straight. Any and all assistance would be great. Also who out there is using a JRXS3 controller and how have you set your EPA, exponential and dual rate(for those of you with this controller PM me and let me know)
(Jody, I know most of the thread is not specifically about 1/12 scale, move me if you have to)
Thanx
RYY

RC51 · October 13, 2005, 12:29:21 PM

PM Sent, RYY.

Phil

haddow · October 13, 2005, 12:50:23 PM

Steering setup

1) Move your dual rate wheel to 125% (max)
2) Now adjust your EPA so that at full steering wheel throw the wheels are just at the end of their maximum range (throw). In most cases the servo has more throw than your steering linkage assembly so if you leave the EPA at 100% (or where ever) the servo could actually be pushing the steering past where it can physically go. IE you are stressing the servo and could break stuff. Do this on each side. Adjust the EPA so the wheels just stop moving (as they start to bind at maximum throw). It doesnt matter if one side requires more or less EPA just get them so you are not stressing stuff, although the more symetrical the better as you will see in a minute. You should also give the wheel a spin when you are at what you think is the maximum range, if they bind or touch anything, reduce the EPA some more.
3) Now move the dual rate dial back down to 80 or 90%.
4) Go out on the track and and do nice slow circles each way with the steering wheel cranked. Adjust the dual rate wheel now so that you can turn around in approx 3/4 of a lane. Make sure the radius of your circle is the same both left and right when the steering wheel is cranked. If it is not the same radius then go back to the EPA and turn it down on the side that had the larger radius circle.(if you do the opposite you will be binding up the steering because you already set it at its maximum)
5) Now when you are racing use ONLY the dual rate wheel to add steering if your car is tight or turn it down if your car is twitchy and loose.
6) EPA is for initial setup only. Dual rate then changes the steering throw equally on bith sides so you can add more or less steering as you need it. That is why EPA and dual rate are NOT redundant as you initially thought. Dual rate is a bad nomenclature taken from airplane transmitters, I can show you on mine where the terminology came from and it makes a little more sense.
7) The reason you set the EPA at 125% dual rate is so that in the future if you crank your dual rate too maximum you can not damge your servo or steering assembly.

8) If you find you need 125% dual rate to get around the track after following the above steps then you need to make suspension adjustments (springs etc) and find extra steering that way, full throw is not the way you want to be driving. Also never put on full tire wash on the fronts if you find your car twitchy.

9) using someone elses settings with the same radio is definatley not going to be fruitfull, especially if that person is not running the same chassis and servo etc etc etc.

peace

Tom · October 13, 2005, 01:19:44 PM

A common cause for having to adjust your EPA to get equal steering in both directions is from failing to have symmetrical steering geometry.

It is important that the servo saver be centered in the car, and have the tie-rods adjusted so that the servo saver is vertical when the tires are pointing straight ahead. If either of these conditions aren't met, then the geometry will dictate that you will have differential steering throw, and compensating for this with EPA settings is a stopgap measure at best.

It is possible also that you are having these problems due to mistakes in building the car. Either that, or your servo turns different angles to the left and right; something that can be independently verified by analyzing the servo throw. If the servo is traveling the same amount to each side of center and your car has different turning radii left and right, then this is clearly a geometry issue.

As far as exponential is concerned, I alway leave that setting alone, since it interferes with how I am trying to control the car.

Tom · October 13, 2005, 01:24:22 PM

Oh yah, I also didn't send a PM to RYY about this topic. Did anyone else either send or not send a PM about this to anyone in particular?

Inquiring minds really want to know.